Discussion Board

Bicycle Safety
I was going to write some more words on gears but there is a more important topic so if nobody objects I’ll change subject and come back to discussing gears in a later post.

Most and possibly all of this should be obvious but it is sometimes its the obvious things we forget.

The first and possibly most important thing to do is to get a copy of your local road rules. After reading it you will probably be the only person on the road who knows the rules but knowledge is always a good thing.

The Bike
Whenever you wash your bike give it a good visual inspection. On one of my Peugeots I discovered that the handlebar stem had a hairline crack extending almost half way around. If that had snapped while riding the result would have been very bad . If your bike has a carbon frame or components then check these carefully as these are more prone to failure than steel or aluminium.

The other thing to check is that the brakes are working properly. If the lever is getting a soggy feel or doesn’t work for the first part of the pull it is time to get them serviced

Accessories
I’ve already talked about lights and not being a ninja. If you’re riding at night your bike also should have reflectors. The other thing it should have is a bell, not much use on the road as the caged-ones won’t hear it, but for warning pedestrians of your approach it’s vital. There are air-powered bicycle sirens available that would put a truck horn to shame but are serious overkill unless you’re riding in heavy caged traffic.

Clothing
You should always wear a pair of gloves partly because they help prevent numb hands but also because in a crash usually your hands hit first. The other thing you should wear is a helmet that satisfies the legal requirements in your country. There was an older style of helmet that had a polystyrene shell and a removable cloth outer covering. These can be dangerous as in a crash the soft polystyrene can catch on the road surface causing a neck injury. The best type has a hard outer shell firmly bonded to the inner polystyrene.

Clothing should also be brightly coloured so as to make you as visible as possible. A bright orange of yellow safety vest is a worthwhile investment. The issue here is safety not about making a fashion statement.

In a future post I hope to write a few words about safe riding techniques.

Hamster,

Just a quick note to say that I am enjoying your posts about cycling.
Thanks!

Safe Riding

So you now know the road rules, are properly attired and have your bike set-up with the appropriate accessories. Sorry to have to now inform you but doing all that was a total waste because once you mount your bicycle you and your bike will become totally and utterly invisible .

This is a big topic so I propose breaking it down into bite-sized chunks. Also, please remember that safety is specific to the circumstances so anything I might say here is a generalization only.

At all times it is important to be alert and aware of what is happening around you. Listening to your favourite MP3 at full volume removes an important source of information. Much can be learned (for example) from the engine noise of a cage as it approaches you from the rear.

Parked Cages
You might consider that a parked cage is safe and poses no risk. Nothing is further from the truth.

As you approach any cage the things to look for is whether it is occupied and whether it is emitting smoke. In either case it should be approached with caution.

If you are riding down a line of parallel parked cages there is a risk of being “doored” this is when an occupant of the cage throws their door open, oblivious of the approaching invisible cyclist. If possible it is a very good idea to leave a 3 foot gap between yourself and the row of cages. This reduces the risk of being “doored”. Prior to opening their door cage occupants frequently lean away from their door (as they reach for the handle). This is a warning of a possible dooring.

With any parked cage there is a risk that the cage will simply pull or reverse out in front of you. Obviously watch for indicators (raucous laughter), reversing lights or smoke issuing from the cage’s smokestack. Obviously be cautious, leave the biggest gap possible and be ready to brake or take evasive action.

I don’t claim to have fully covered the issue of safety around parked cages so please feel free to expand upon my efforts.

Lorax,

Thanks for the feedback – I appreciate it .

Unfortunately I can’t recommend any good cycling books. My cycling books are either really old, written in French or are a low volume Australian publication. Just in case you’re wondering I can’t speak French, I can just recognize sufficient words to figure out what the diagrams mean (most of the time) .

Youtube is an excellent source of information, there are videos there describing everything from puncture repair to doing a full overhaul. In relation to books, your LBS should be able to either sell you something or else recommend one.

Have to admit, I have never heard of a car/vehicle referred to as a cage. Is that an Australian term? Or a bicycling term that I haven't come across? Or giving your own personal opinion of them? LOL!! Either way, it certainly captured my attention in an unique way. Good information, always good to review the basics that we can forget.

Lorax,

I picked up using the term ‘cage’ from the commuter thread on a cycling forum that I sometimes inhabit. It sort of caught my fancy as it catches the lack of connection between the cage-dweller and their environment.

As a minor example there is a pair of magpies setting up home in a large fig tree that I pass under. They are engrossed in each other and beginning to build a nest. In a few month’s time there will be some baby magpies to be seen. As a cyclist my world is not limited to my cage. Even on a cold wet day I enjoy being part of the environment.

Remember where we calculated how far a bike will move forward with a single turn of the pedals? This is called its development.

My single speed bike (as an example) has a front gear with 46 teeth and 15 teeth on the rear cog and a wheel circumference of 2.1 meters. This means that the bike has a development of (46/15) X 2.1 = 6.44 meters. All this from a single turn of the pedals - no wonder that bikes use energy so efficiently. With a leisurely cadence of 70 I'd be travelling at (6.44 X 70 X 60)/1000 = 27 kph or 17 mph.

Suppose we wanted to build a bike with the same development but without using gears. We would need a wheel with a diameter of 6.44/pi = 2.05 meters of 6 feet 9 inches. Wow - no wonder they built penny farthings with really big front wheels.

Sorry about the math, my next post will be back on the topic of safety.

Hello,

Biking is one of my favorite activities. Haven't gotten to do much of it this summer because our weather here in the Seattle area has been terrible until recently.

After reading through the thread and seeing what everyone else is riding, it seems that I am the only one who rides a recumbent. I do have a cheapie mountain bike I bought a few years ago, too but I prefer the recumbent. The 'bent as they're often called, is a Bike E brand, which unfortunately isn't produced anymore. But it's a great bike.

For those of you with back issues and arm numbness, a recumbent can alleviate the problem very quickly. I have severely damaged discs in my lower spine and I mangled my arm quite badly in a biking accident when I was a teenager which resulted in multiple surgeries, so have nerve problems in my elbow and wrist. But with the recumbent, I have no virtually no discomfort in my back or arm like I do on an upright (aka - wedgie).

Anyway, great thread! I'm hoping to get on my bike this week for a few miles now that the weather is cooperating.

I used to ride a recumbent trike. I loved it. I don't have it anymore because my hubby didn't like me riding it said I wasn't safe enough when I went out on the main roads. That the cars couldn't see me good enough. He might not of complained so much if I had had one of the taller bikes. laugh.

Please tell us more about recumbent bikes. It's a style I know nothing about, and would like to know more.

Welcome to the thread.

Hamster -

Recumbents come in a couple of different varieties, some 2 wheel and some 3 wheel.

2 wheel versions are SWB or short wheel base, and about the same length as most BMX or mt bikes. These are usually about as high as regular bike (aka wedgie or diamond frame in bent speak). The pedals on these stick out above the front wheel and are usually a bit higher than your butt.

LWB or long wheel base are longer framed. On these bikes, your feet are lower than the frame, sit behind the front wheel and you generally ride in a more upright position.

There is also a CLWB - compact long wheel base - typically a bit shorter than a standard LWB.

Then there are a whole host of other styles - high racer, low racer, and more. Plus different handle bar styles - OSS, or over seat steering, which is like the handle bars on a regular bike, - and USS or under seat steering, which is typically found on LWB's and the handle bar sits under the rider's seat. Very fun to steer!

3 wheel trike versions come in 2 basic styles - tadpole, where the front is 2 wheel with 1 back wheel - and delta, which is where the front is 1 wheel and the back 2 wheels, like a traditional trike.

Trikes are extremely fun to ride!

This is what my bike looks like - it's considered a CLWB, generally, though there is some debate in bent community. LOL

More Cycling Safety

Cycle Paths/Routes
There is nothing complex here, but sometimes it is the basics that we forget.

To be overtaken by a large peloton of perhaps 20 or more riders all flying by at high speed can be a frightening experience. In these circumstances it is vital to maintain your speed and your line. To try to deviate is to risk collusion with somebody who is about to overtake. To brake is to risk being hit from the rear. Simply ride straight and at a constant speed and watch the riders on their fancy machines go by.

Paths that are used by both pedestrians and cyclists are particularly prone to collusions. On these please be careful, slow-down and be watchful and ready to brake. Always remember that when mounted on your bike that you are invisible. I have had pedestrians who are walking toward me at night with both my lights on not see me.

Cages in Motion
When riding along a road obviously follow the relevant road rules. I have found it best not to ride at the very edge. Firstly it encourages the cages to try to pass without changing lanes hence there is a significant risk of some very close encounters of an unpleasant kind. Also your ability to manoeuvre is limited. I have found that riding about 2 feet from the edge is safest.

Most road rules (yours may differ) consider bicycles to be vehicles and on a multi-lane road are entitled to occupy a full lane. Normally I try to maximize the distance between myself and any cage, but there are times when I will claim a full lane by moving out to the middle. Part of my regular commute takes me onto a multi-lane roundabout with another road coming off only a few meters from where I enter. In this circumstance I claim a full lane to prevent a cage from trying to overtake me and then turning in front of me. Similar to what happened to this cyclist.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWENoBDxuS4

The vast majority of cages simply move in their great migratory herds and don’t cause any bicycle mounted human any concern but some can turn feral and it is these that must be watched, avoided or reported to the relevant authority.

Safe riding is important but the risks of cycling are far less than the health risks of leading a sedentary lifestyle.

Please ride safely.

Hi silverlunace

The design of the upright bicycle is now almost 130 years old and I suspect that in many ways it’s continued popularity flows from recumbents being banned from international racing since 1935. They were too fast and put the uprights at a disadvantage.

I’ve seen a few trikes about including a hand-operated one. They appear to be very fast and a lot of fun. I sort of casually looked at the Greenspeed Glyde at one time, partly due to it’s cost and partly there not being the infrastructure to fully use it meant that I didn’t get one. If there was suitable infrastructure they would be a valid and healthy alternative to driving.

http://www.greenspeed.com.au/Glyde.htm

At speed your bike would probably be very stable but what is it like at low speed? How do you find taking-off as I don’t think you could push off with one foot? The seating arrangement should also be far more comfortable and give much better back support.

I really enjoyed reading your post – thank you for contributing .

You are correct, hamster - that is indeed why they have not been as popular as an upright. They were banned from international racing.

And yes, they are expensive! For me, though, it's a no brainer. I'd rather have the comfort and ability to ride than not be able to ride at all.

Like any bike, they take practice and certainly more at low speeds but definitely do better when going faster. You can push off with one foot - kinda tricky, but it's doable. Once you get the hang of it, it's just like riding a bike.

The seating and back support is very comfortable. Easy on the shoulders and knees too.

Hi Annie

My first choice of bicycles was a recumbent, but I didn't have the $1999 that it cost, so I went for a less expensive Trek 7500. But I loved the recumbent. My only problem with it was learning how to turn, especially tight turns, never quite got the hang of it. I have some back issues, and the recumbent was just like sitting in a chair with the back support (gotta love it)!